By Doug Winter – RareGoldCoins.com
There’s no getting around it: the doctoring of rare U.S. gold coins is a real problem. And it’s not a new one.
I’ve heard stories of American collectors and dealers altering coins for over a century. No doubt the problem began even earlier in Europe. But over the last 10 to 20 years, the tools and techniques used to doctor coins have grown far more sophisticated, to the point that some alterations are explicitly made to fool grading services.
At first, I considered using many photos to illustrate. But I don’t want to publicly point out coins that don’t belong to me, especially if they’ve already been compromised. Instead, I’ll describe what you should look for and how to protect yourself.
Start With Color – The First Red Flag
One of the easiest ways to detect a doctored gold coin is by looking at its color.
That’s why I always make a point to describe coin coloration in both my books and online listings. When you know what natural color is supposed to look like, it becomes easier to spot when something isn’t right.
Take early Dahlonega half eagles, for example. These coins tend to have a rich, green-gold tone that’s unmistakable once you’ve seen it. If a coin from that era doesn’t look like that, your instincts should start firing.
Sadly, many of the people doctoring coins aren’t great numismatists. They don’t understand what the correct coloration is for, say, an 1840-D half eagle or an 1878-S eagle. But you can. The more familiar you become with the series you collect, the less likely you are to be fooled.
The Rise of Artificial Coloration
There are many types of artificial coloring used on gold coins, depending on the chemical and process applied. The truth is, these chemicals usually break down over time.
When you see a coin with wild coloration in a PCGS or NGC holder, that color wasn’t there when it was graded. It changed after being encapsulated.
One dead giveaway? What I call “Cheeto Orange.” Imagine the fluorescent orange powder left on your fingers after eating that popular snack. Now picture that on a gold coin. In 100% of cases, that color is artificial.
Another warning sign is a deep red-gold hue that looks like a coin is bleeding. Natural red-gold hues do exist, but they’re subtle and deepen around the borders, not dramatic or uniform across the surface.
Blue and Purple Tints? Another Red Flag
I occasionally see 20th-century gold coins with a bluish or purplish tone. This isn’t natural. It’s often caused by heating the surface, likely done to remove copper spots.
Years ago, copper spots weren’t considered a big deal. You rarely saw gold coins with blue tones. But today, collectors treat copper spots like the melanomas of numismatics, and coins are sometimes altered to remove them.
Unfortunately, that heat leaves behind unnatural colors.
Surface Substances: A More Subtle Problem
Some coins are doctored using materials like auto body putty or dental wax, applied in thin layers to hide hairlines and marks.
Why don’t the grading services always catch this? Sometimes they do. But if the application is light enough, it can slip through.
Over time, these materials break down, turning cloudy or even white. Once that happens, they’re easy to detect. But fresh putty? That’s a different story. Even savvy dealers (myself included) can be fooled.
In these cases, the best advice is simple: buy the dealer, not just the coin.
Who You Buy From Matters
Some dealers have a well-earned reputation for doctoring coins. If you’re serious about collecting, try to learn who these people are. If that’s not possible, then at least study the coins they sell.
Ask yourself:
- Do their coins look “puttied”?
- Do they show unnatural colors or dull surfaces?
There’s a reason why coins in old holders are so popular. If a coin has looked the same since it was slabbed by NGC or PCGS in the early ‘90s, there’s a good chance it’s stable and original.
So whenever you get the chance to examine “fresh” coins, those in older holders or untouched collections, take notes. Observe what truly original surfaces look like. Then use that knowledge when buying.
Dipping and Brightening: Where I Draw the Line
A more benign form of doctoring involves using solvents like Jewelustre to dip coins and brighten their surfaces.
Now, I’m a purist. I prefer gold coins that are crusty and original. But if a coin has been carefully dipped and still has its skin, I don’t have an issue with it. That’s especially true for Proof gold, where original examples are incredibly rare.
However, there are brightening methods I strongly oppose. One old trick involved rubbing a coin with baking soda to simulate luster. This would give it a bright, unnatural look that some grading services, unfortunately, used to accept.
Coins treated this way often “maxed out” in terms of grade, but over time, they’ve fallen out of favor.
How to Spot a Brightened Coin
These coins often have:
- Grainy textures
- Drab, monochromatic color
- No cartwheel luster
That last one is important. New collectors might not notice, but missing luster is a major red flag. The best thing you can do? Learn what original surfaces should look like, and compare.
The Worst Offense: Moving Metal
To me, the most unethical form of doctoring involves physically moving metal on the coin’s surface. This is both deceptive and harmful to the hobby.
Thankfully, the grading services are highly skilled at catching this. If you stay within your comfort zone and buy graded coins from trusted sources, you likely won’t encounter this problem.
But if you’re buying raw coins, here’s what to watch for:
- Rim filing: Some 18th- and 19th-century coins have had their rims filed to remove bumps.
- Scratch removal: Look for smoothed areas in the fields. These are signs of past damage that someone tried to hide.
Again, the grading services are usually spot-on in catching these tricks. But it doesn’t hurt to train your eye.
Will the Coin Doctoring Problem Go Away?
Probably not. But you can play your part.
Become educated. Know what to look for. And don’t support dealers who doctor coins. If they lose their audience, they lose their incentive.
It might sound naive, but in this case, an informed collector base really can help protect the market.
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